There’s nothing like a glass of wine with a meal. It complements food and is also an excellent social lubricant. But if you’re not knowledgeable about wine, how do you know what to choose when you’re handed a wine list?
There are literally thousands of different types of grapes from which wine is made (see “Noble Prizes” at the right). How do you choose which grape?
And what about price? Do you have to spend an exorbitant amount? Although you can buy a nice bottle of wine for $20 to $30 at the liquor store, many restaurants apply a hefty markup (often 100 percent to 150 percent).
“We can read financial statements, but we can’t always read a wine list,” said Cathy Dimitriadis, Vice Chair of CFA Society Toronto Equity Committee. “And wine is becoming more important in our industry.” And popular, too. In 2013, the total of volume of Canadian wine sales was 207 million litres, of which roughly 62 million litres were 100 percent Canadian wines, according to Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada.
Dimitriadis said she came up with the idea for a wine workshop because people can be intimidated by wine. So she invited Mark Parnega, a member of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers since 2009 and sommelier at downtown restaurant George, to discuss selecting and tasting wine at CFA Society Toronto.
“There’s a communal experience through sharing wine,” said Parnega. It can set the tone for the lunch or dinner. With wine, “there are social dictates and conventions—how you’re behaving in front of your clients.” For example, Parnega said that starting with a bottle of Amarone from Italy before lunch or dinner (a heavy red at 16 percent alcohol) will make for “interesting” conversation. He suggested something lighter, such as a German Riesling (a white at seven percent).
While Parnega agrees that looking at a wine list can be daunting, he suggests thinking about your tastes. “What do you drink at home?” he asked. “You have to start with what you like yourself.”
And don’t worry about wine “rules” (i.e., red with beef and white with fish). Those are simply old traditions, he said. “If you want red wine with mackerel, go right ahead. Stay true to yourself. Pair the wine to the food—not vice versa.”
“Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world.”
– U.S. novelist Ernest Hemingway
So, to figure out what you like, follow these steps.
First, look at the wine in the glass. Is it clear or cloudy? Is it vibrant or dull? Is there sediment at the bottom?
Second, tilt the glass and look at the rim of the wine. (This step is for red wines only.) Is it garnet in colour? “Garnet is more prevalent when the wines are older,” Parnega said.
Next, swirl the glass and then “nose” the wine. Is there a fruity smell? A floral one? Is it earthy or chemical? To help you discover what you smell, Parnega suggested getting a tasting wheel (go to www.winearomawheel.com).
Next, taste the wine. As you do this, said Parnega, try to suck in air to get the full flavour of the wine as it’s in your mouth. “Don’t just slug it back. Nose it, take a sip, think about it, and then you can appreciate it.” And, if you’re at a restaurant and you don’t like the wine, send it back. “It’s your money. Say what you feel,” he said. “Trust me, at the end of the night the somms [sommeliers] will drink it.”
OLD WORLD
– wines from Europe (e.g., Italy, Germany, France)
NEW WORLD
– wines from anywhere outside Europe (e.g., Chile, Australia, California)
NOBLE PRIZES
While there are many varietals of grapes—for example, there are 30,000 types in Italy alone—sommelier Mark Parnega says you can do well with wine if you know the following 18 noble grapes.
Red (from lightest to darkest)
Pinot Noir – easiest to drink
Grenache/Garnache – fruity and light, often sweet
Merlot – smooth tannins but unpredictable; can be light or bold, but generally fruit-forward
Sangiovese – more tannic than Pinot Noir; bold cherry flavours
Nebbiolo – a savoury high-tannin/acidic wine; light in colour
Tempranillo – earthy with rustic tobacco notes and high tannins
Cabernet Sauvignon – savoury with a long finish
Syrah/Shiraz – bold, dark fruit, and lighter tannins
Malbec – blueberry and blackberry flavours
White (from lightest to richest)
Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio – light and zesty; high acidity
Riesling – dry to sweet with scents of lime, honey, and apricots; high acidity
Sauvignon Blanc – green and herby
Chenin Blanc – floral and citrus notes
Muscat/Muscato – sweet; taste of peach and orange
Gewürztraminer – off-dry to sweet; taste of ginger and honey
Sémillon – dry medium body with lemon notes
Viognier – floral; medium body
Chardonnay – full body and dry